Silver Soldering Stainless Steel, whilst doable, is tricky!
The biggest challenge with Silver Soldering Stainless Steel is the heat needed to melt the solder is close to the temperature at which the Chrome in the Stainless burns (Blueing).
If you get blueing, you will not get Silver Solder to take to it and will have to stop, clean off the blueing and start again!
I would strongly suggest using an Oxygen + Fuel Torch, rather than Fuel + Air as itโs best to get the job to temperature as quickly as possible to minimise the risk of oxides forming.
This can be Oxy/Acetylene, Oxy/Propane or Oxy/Polypropylene (MAPP). All will be hot enough!
Technique
I usually make a small amount of Silver Solder Flux into paste by adding a little water.
I then put this paste along the edge of the joint.
As you heat the joint up, the paste initially dries out.
Just before the joint reaches the melting point of the Silver Solder, the flux will turn into a liquid.
At this point you should be VERY careful with your flame, try not to keep it still as this will overheat a small area, potentially causing “Blueing”.
Start testing the heat of the joint by trying to add Silver Solder, do not put the Silver Solder under the flame and remove straight away if it doesn’t melt.
Once the Silver Solder melts, try not to heat the joint any further and only keep the flame on the joint if necessary.
Conclusions
Silver Soldering Stainless Steel is tricky, but not impossible
Practicing on some scrap would be wise!
I would not attempt Silver soldering Stainless Steel with a Fuel/Air Torch, I would only use an Oxygen/Fuel Torch.
Care and patience will win the day ๐
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