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How Many Amps for Stick Welding

Friday, 12th March 2021
Graham (Tech Advisor)
The Welders Warehouse Online Shop

How Many Amps for Stick Welding, like a lot of things in Welding, is not a precise science because it depends on a number of variables:

  • Type of Metal
  • Metal Thickness
  • Type of Joint
  • Joint Preparation
  • Welding Rods Diameter
  • To some extent, the size of the object being welded
  • To some extent, the ambient temperature and the temperature of the metal to be welded

So for example, a Butt Weld in 10mm Steel, with a ‘V’ Prep where a Root run is applied, followed by a Fill and Cap run, will need less Amps than say 5mm thick steel with only a small gap for prep.

Joint Type also has a bearing. A Fillet Joint will need around 10% more Amps than a Butt Joint, while an Outside Corner Joint will need less power than a Butt Joint.

Often the answer comes from testing your best guess at power.

The above variables and comments explain why there is quite a range in the following Amp guides.

6013 Welding Rods for Mild Steel

  • 2.0mm = 40-60amps
  • 2.5mm = 60-90amps
  • 3.2mm = 90-130amps
  • 4.0mm = 130-170amps
  • 5.0mm = 170-220amps

View our 6013 Welding Rods

7018 Welding Rods for Mild Steel

  • 2.0mm = 50-70amps
  • 2.5mm = 70-100amps
  • 3.2mm = 100-140amps
  • 4.0mm = 140-190amps
  • 5.0mm = 190-240amps

304/316 Stainless Steel Welding Rods

  • 2.0mm = 30-50amps
  • 2.5mm = 40-70amps
  • 3.2mm = 60-90amps
  • 4.0mm = 90-120amps
  • 5.0mm = 120-170amps

View our Stainless Steel & Cast Iron Rods

Ferro Nickel Rods for Cast Iron

  • 2.5mm = 70-100amps
  • 3.2mm = 100-130amps
  • 4.0mm = 130-150amps
  • 5.0mm = 150-170amps

View our Stainless Steel & Cast Iron Rods

Visit our Wires, Rods, Gas Page to view our Range

How Many Amps for Stick Welding – Conclusion

How Many Amps for Stick Welding is, unfortunately, not quite as simple as we might like. There are simply too many variables.

So the easiest way forward is to use the guides above to get you to the right ball park amps, then do a test weld on some scrap metal that’s the same as the job.

I hope you found this blog article about How Many Amps for Stick Welding useful.

Please let me know what you thought by leaving a comment.  

Don’t worry, your email address won’t be added to a database or shared and you won’t receive any unsolicited email.

Cheers

Graham

28 comments

  1. Timothy Campbell says:

    This is just what I was looking for, thank you

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Timothy, thanks for the comment, glad you found the article helpful.
      Cheers Graham

  2. Raj Yadav says:

    This was very good informative artical sir can you explain. About in how much should be current ampere and voltage to 3G welding with 7018 electrodes 2.5 mm for rout pass

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Raj
      Thanks for your comment, I regret I can’t give specific current settings as this will depend on the make of electrode and thickness of material being welded.
      I recommend speaking with the electrode manufacturer for such advice.
      Regards Graham

  3. Yogendra Vikash Ram says:

    Very informative article.
    I just get confused about the metal type sometimes.
    Once again a very big thank you for a detailed info.

    Thanks Graham.

    1. Graham says:

      Thanks for the generous comment Yogendra, glad you found the article useful.
      Cheers, Graham

  4. tony says:

    Great article thanks…. very informative

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Tony
      Glad you found the article helpful.
      Regards Graham

  5. bill l madore says:

    I’m welding a backhoe bucket with many different scenarios. Butt, lap, outside corners inside fillet welds and also with different thkness of metals. I have 7018 and 6013 rods. With a 40 year old craftsman buz box. High, low. Any advice?

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Bill
      Difficult to be specific with the information provided, and not being able to see the job, but 7018 is going to significantly stronger, so would be my choice!
      Hope that helps 🙂
      Cheers Graham

  6. thumela dlodlo says:

    Beautifully explained in simple terms makes me love doing this welding thing, thumbs Up

    1. Graham says:

      Thank you for the generous comment Thumela, glad you found the article useful.
      Kind regards
      Graham

  7. Adrian says:

    Best information thus far
    I am new at this.

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Adrian
      Thanks for the comment. Glad you found the blog easy to read and the info helpful. Means I’ve done my job 🙂
      Cheers Graham

  8. Jerry says:

    Brilliant article.

    Interestingly the most experienced sentence came from one of your comments- “ I usually try on a piece of scrap metal the same thickness and joint type etc and inspect and/or test the resulting weld.”

    Add that to the guide in the article and I think I have the winning recipe for all weld situations.

    Thanks Graham.

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Jerry
      Thanks for the comments, glad you found the article helpful.
      Cheers Graham

  9. John says:

    Someone suggested a good starting point is the decimal equivalent of the welding rod diameter without the decimal point, for example 1/8 rod the decimal equivalent is.125, if you take the decimal point away you get 125, which would be the starting point for that 1/8 inch rod. What do you think?

    1. Graham says:

      Hi John
      I regret I can’t really comment on that formula as Rods in the UK are in Metric Measure, so your 1/8″ is 3.25mm in the UK. Having said that, 125amps is pretty high for a 1/8″ – 3.2mm rod. These, generally, are used between at 90 & 130 amps. I would suggest it’s normally better to underestimate amps, or risk blowing a big hole that then has to be filled.
      But each to their own 😀
      Cheers Graham

  10. Ivan says:

    Thanks. I would like to know how the thickness of the metal influences the amperage.

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Ivan
      It’s impossible to give a definitive answer. Thicker metal will require more power, but how much will depend on joint configuration and joint preparation. Bottom line is it’s a bit of a suck it and see process. I usually try on a piece of scrap metal the same thickness and joint type etc and inspect and/or test the resulting weld. It’s usually pretty obvious if you have too much or too little power.
      I hope that helps, if only a bit 🙂
      Cheers Graham

  11. Nick says:

    Was always curious but thanks for that makes sense . Great explanation

    1. Graham says:

      You’re welcome Nick, glad you found the article helpful.
      Regards Graham

  12. Robert McCombie says:

    This is a great article. Was very informative

  13. CAMARADE MAKOLE says:

    AM HAPPY AND SATISFIED OF YOUR ARTICLE

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Camarade
      Thank You for your comment, glad you found the article useful.
      Regards Graham

  14. michael hirtz says:

    thanks for a great article.i do artistic steel pieces.i am going to put the rods for steel on the side of the welder.one thing not mentioned is the duty cycle of the cheap machines.i dont have that problem 1 have a 100 % cycle machine.thanks again for a most informative article.

    1. Graham says:

      Hi Michael
      Thank you for your comment, great to hear you found the “How Many Amps for Stick Welding” article useful.
      Cheers Graham

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