How Many Amps for Stick Welding, like a lot of things in Welding, is not a precise science because it depends on a number of variables:
So for example, a Butt Weld in 10mm Steel, with a ‘V’ Prep where a Root run is applied, followed by a Fill and Cap run, will need less Amps than say 5mm thick steel with only a small gap for prep.
Joint Type also has a bearing. A Fillet Joint will need around 10% more Amps than a Butt Joint, while an Outside Corner Joint will need less power than a Butt Joint.
Often the answer comes from testing your best guess at power.
The above variables and comments explain why there is quite a range in the following Amp guides.
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How Many Amps for Stick Welding is, unfortunately, not quite as simple as we might like. There are simply too many variables.
So the easiest way forward is to use the guides above to get you to the right ball park amps, then do a test weld on some scrap metal that’s the same as the job.
I hope you found this blog article about How Many Amps for Stick Welding useful.
Please let me know what you thought by leaving a comment.
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Cheers
Graham
This is just what I was looking for, thank you
Hi Timothy, thanks for the comment, glad you found the article helpful.
Cheers Graham
This was very good informative artical sir can you explain. About in how much should be current ampere and voltage to 3G welding with 7018 electrodes 2.5 mm for rout pass
Hi Raj
Thanks for your comment, I regret I can’t give specific current settings as this will depend on the make of electrode and thickness of material being welded.
I recommend speaking with the electrode manufacturer for such advice.
Regards Graham
Very informative article.
I just get confused about the metal type sometimes.
Once again a very big thank you for a detailed info.
Thanks Graham.
Thanks for the generous comment Yogendra, glad you found the article useful.
Cheers, Graham
Great article thanks…. very informative
Hi Tony
Glad you found the article helpful.
Regards Graham
I’m welding a backhoe bucket with many different scenarios. Butt, lap, outside corners inside fillet welds and also with different thkness of metals. I have 7018 and 6013 rods. With a 40 year old craftsman buz box. High, low. Any advice?
Hi Bill
Difficult to be specific with the information provided, and not being able to see the job, but 7018 is going to significantly stronger, so would be my choice!
Hope that helps 🙂
Cheers Graham
Beautifully explained in simple terms makes me love doing this welding thing, thumbs Up
Thank you for the generous comment Thumela, glad you found the article useful.
Kind regards
Graham
Best information thus far
I am new at this.
Hi Adrian
Thanks for the comment. Glad you found the blog easy to read and the info helpful. Means I’ve done my job 🙂
Cheers Graham
Brilliant article.
Interestingly the most experienced sentence came from one of your comments- “ I usually try on a piece of scrap metal the same thickness and joint type etc and inspect and/or test the resulting weld.”
Add that to the guide in the article and I think I have the winning recipe for all weld situations.
Thanks Graham.
Hi Jerry
Thanks for the comments, glad you found the article helpful.
Cheers Graham
Someone suggested a good starting point is the decimal equivalent of the welding rod diameter without the decimal point, for example 1/8 rod the decimal equivalent is.125, if you take the decimal point away you get 125, which would be the starting point for that 1/8 inch rod. What do you think?
Hi John
I regret I can’t really comment on that formula as Rods in the UK are in Metric Measure, so your 1/8″ is 3.25mm in the UK. Having said that, 125amps is pretty high for a 1/8″ – 3.2mm rod. These, generally, are used between at 90 & 130 amps. I would suggest it’s normally better to underestimate amps, or risk blowing a big hole that then has to be filled.
But each to their own 😀
Cheers Graham
Thanks. I would like to know how the thickness of the metal influences the amperage.
Hi Ivan
It’s impossible to give a definitive answer. Thicker metal will require more power, but how much will depend on joint configuration and joint preparation. Bottom line is it’s a bit of a suck it and see process. I usually try on a piece of scrap metal the same thickness and joint type etc and inspect and/or test the resulting weld. It’s usually pretty obvious if you have too much or too little power.
I hope that helps, if only a bit 🙂
Cheers Graham
Was always curious but thanks for that makes sense . Great explanation
You’re welcome Nick, glad you found the article helpful.
Regards Graham
This is a great article. Was very informative
AM HAPPY AND SATISFIED OF YOUR ARTICLE
Hi Camarade
Thank You for your comment, glad you found the article useful.
Regards Graham
thanks for a great article.i do artistic steel pieces.i am going to put the rods for steel on the side of the welder.one thing not mentioned is the duty cycle of the cheap machines.i dont have that problem 1 have a 100 % cycle machine.thanks again for a most informative article.
Hi Michael
Thank you for your comment, great to hear you found the “How Many Amps for Stick Welding” article useful.
Cheers Graham